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Mt Whitney - Trail Guide timberlinetrails.net
The Mt Whitney Trail is a well maintained 11 mile foot path to the summit of Mt Whitney. The trail
begins at 8,360 Ft, and ends at the 14,497 Ft summit of Mt Whitney. This places the total elevation gain at
6,137 Ft. I would rate Mt Whitney as the third easiest of the fifteen California peaks (that soar above fourteen
thousand feet) behind White Mountain and Mount Langley. But Mt Whitney (due to it being the tallest peak in
the continental United States) receives the heaviest traffic by far of all the peaks in the Sierra Nevada
Mountains.
Once you have finished making all your last minute preparations and
got that group send off photo at the Whitney Portal Trail Head area, you
are ready to get started up the trail. It starts off fairly easy, and
is fairly smooth in comparison to what is to come latter on.
In early season the lower section of
the trail is graced with beautiful green
ferns and other plant life as seen in
the photo to the left. Latter in the
season things dry out and your
surroundings are not quite so lush.
About a mile up the trail, you will
come to a trail marker that points the
way to the North Fork of Lone Pine
Creek. If you are tackling one of the
East Face Routes, the Mountaineer's
Route, or are climbing Mt Russel,
then you do not want to miss this
turnoff. I have met up with people
that have ventured well up the North
Fork who thought they were on the
Mt Whitney Main Trail, and also
with folks that were well on their way up the main trail, only to find out that they missed the turnoff for their
intended trip up Whitney's Mountaineer's route. So pay close attention to this trail marker located at about the
one mile mark. It's no fun wasting energy by both climbing up, and then backtracking down to get back on
route.
I have been up both forks several times, and I have to tell you, that the
North Fork of Lone Pine Creek is nothing like the Main Mt Whitney Trail.
The North Fork is much rougher, and if you get off course you will find
yourself doing some nasty bushwhacking in the lower section (along the
infamous creek bed). The image to the left shows what comes right after
passing the North Fork trail marker on the main trail. It is a small stone
crossing of the Lone Pine Creek drainage. If your intention was to turn off
the main trail and proceed up the North Fork and you find yourself in the
photo to the left, then you have just missed the turnoff.
After you cross Lone Pine Creek, the trail continues to meander and
switchback up the canyon on easy terrain. At times you think you are not
making much progress, but just a quick glance down the canyon in the
vicinity of the Portal Parking lot will tell you otherwise. The vehicles and
roadways down there now look like a toy Micro Machine setup.
Shortly after the crossing of Lone Pine Creek, (above)
you will enter the John Muir Wilderness (as shown in the
photo to the right). The John Muir Wilderness extends
along the crest of the Sierra Nevada of California, for
approximately 100 miles, in the Inyo and Sierra National
Forests. Established in 1964 by the Wilderness Act, and
named for naturalist John Muir, it contains 581,000 acres.
The wilderness extends from Reds Meadow (near
Mammoth Mountain) in the north, to south of Mount
Whitney. The wilderness area also spans the Sierra north
of Kings Canyon National Park, and extends on the west
side of the park down to the Monarch Wilderness.
The next big landmark coming up at the 2.8 mile
mark is Lone Pine Lake. This beautiful Sierra
Lake is situated at 9,900 Ft of elevation.
You have now gained 1,560 feet or almost a
quarter of your total elevation gain to the top of
Mount Whitney. You will know that you are very
close to Lone Pine Lake by the cool split log
crossing shown to the left. It has been around since
I first climbed Mt Whitney in the early 1970's and
was still there on our June trip in 2007.
Lone Pine Lake (shown in the photo below) is a great destination for kids who are just getting started in the
outdoors. It is only 2.8 miles from the trailhead, and affords super camping areas not far from it's shores.
(remember to camp at least 100 feet from any water source) You also do not need the hard to get Main
Whitney Trail permit, if you are going no further the Lone Pine Lake. (but you still need a regular wilderness
permit if you intend to spend the night). Kids will love the adventure, and it is a great way to introduce them
to the wilderness without having to push them up something that is too difficult for their little legs (like trying
to go to the summit of Mt Whitney and having them fail and not want to ever come back).
To get to the shores of
Lone Pine Lake, you will
need to turn off the main
trail (at the trail marker
shown above and to the right), and take a short hike down hill. My wife and I spent several outings
backpacking up to Lone Pine Lake for the night. Being out in the wilderness at Lone Pine Lake was a
fantastic way to take a short break from the hustle and bustle of city life. Note the huge thunderhead
forming in the background of the image above. The ominous clouds
are developing down below above the Owens Valley and have now
risen above the 10,000 foot level. Needless to say, we had a
torrential rain that night, but that ingredient only added to the
excitement, for we were well prepared to weather the storm with our
tent and attached rain fly. We had started the day with pure blue
skies and ended with night time thundershowers. This is why you
need to always carry rain protection with you on Mt Whitney or any
wilderness terrain. You never know what will develop as the day rolls
on.
Shortly after passing by Lone Pine Lake, you will be greeted with the
sign (shown in the photo to the right), warning you that you are
entering the Whitney Zone, and that a special permit is required for
all hikers and overnight backpackers. If you do not have the proper permit, and the Ranger catches you,
(very likely) then you will be escorted off the mountain and possibly fined. So make sure you have the
proper paperwork with you at all times.
Once past Lone Pine Lake, it is only one mile further to Outpost Camp. This
camp is located at 3.8 miles from the start, and at an elevation of 10,400 feet.
As you approach this beautiful meadow (where Outpost Camp is located), you
will find yourself descending a bit (see photo to the left) before reaching the
meadows below. Established campsites are located at the far end of the
area, so continue to hike along until you reach these sites (if your plans are for
spending the night here). If you are not on a one day push to the summit,
Outpost Camp is a great place to spend the night or take a break if your
plans are for a one day outing (or if you plan on camping up higher at Trail
Camp).
Outpost Camp has
fantastic well established
sites that are wonderfully
level and they have a nice
sandy base to boot. This
makes for easy tent setup,
and comfortable sleeping.
There are several of these
sites, so finding one
should not be a problem
except on the highest volume weekends in July and August. There is also a good water source for most times
of the year, but it still must be pumped for safety. This camp is down stream from the heavily populated
Trail Camp above, so drinking straight out of the streams is not an option. Make sure that you treat your
water either by boiling it, filtering it, chemically treating it, or any combination of the aforementioned.
At Outpost Camp, you
are still surrounded by
imposing granite walls.
In the photo to the
left, you see Thor
Peak at 12,300 feet
towering above camp
in the background.
But once you reach
the summit you will
look down on Thor
Peak like it was no
big deal.
As you proceed up the trail (after your visit to Outpost Camp), you will be able to look back and get a great
view of the meadows below (as shown in the above right hand photo). Having extra time on Mt Whitney will
enable you to take time out to enjoy these camps. So many people are in such a rush on the mountain that
they are hardly able to take time out and enjoy the magnificent surroundings that Mt Whitney has to offer.
Next point of interest only 0.2 miles and 240
vertical feet further up the trail from Outpost Camp
is Mirror Lake (located 4.0 miles from trailhead at
10,640 feet). Mirror Lake is basically for viewing
only since camping has (and still is) closed to
camping. This regulation was in force ever since I
can remember in the early seventies. The area
must have been badly overused in earlier years,
and is a testimony to how long it takes for an area
to recover once it has been abused. The trail skirts
this lake at a slightly higher elevation point, and I
rarely have seen anyone go down and explore it's
shores.
After Mirror Lake, the trail turns rocky and gets
down to serious business. There will be many
steps to negotiate, and you will soon be above
timberline where trees are no longer able to grow
due to the environmental conditions of high
altitude. This is also the point where most people
begin to feel the effect of altitude on their bodies.
Make sure to get plenty of water, and do not rush
yourself. Altitude has a way of sucking water out
of your body, and exhausting yourself along with
dehydration is a good way to get sick. So take it
easy and concentrate on proper breathing and
water intake.
Years ago while hiking up Mt Whitney, I took this
picture of horses and mules ascending the trail
between Mirror Lake and Trail Camp. One can
certainly learn a lesson from these creatures. They
are slow but steady, but they soon outpaced us and
disappeared. One mistake people make in the
mountains is setting too fast a pace for themselves
or their party. Far better to set a pace that you
can maintain all day with few stops, then to rush
along and take breaks every 15 minutes or so. I
will never forget long ago while doing Mt Whitney
with my dad rushing from point to point so fast and
getting to Trail Camp in record time only to sit down exhausted and unable to go on. We were soon passed
by a man whom we had nearly spun in circles when we passed him lower down the trail. As he passed us, he
turned and said..... "boys, I told you....take it slow and easy.....one step at a time. That's the way to make
the top" That man was over 70 years old while I was in my early twenties. I never forgot that advise, and it
has served me well over the many years I have been mountaineering.
At the 5 mile point you come to beautiful
Trail Side Meadow. You are not allowed
to camp here, but it is a great place to rest
those tired bones while enjoying some of
the most wonderfully lush scenery on
Mt Whitney. At 11,400 feet, the trees are
gone, but the stream fed greenery helps
make this rest stop well worth while. If you
are low on water or need to fuel up with
lunch or just a well deserved snack, this
is the place to do it. We choose this location
for our lunch stop and we thoroughly
enjoyed it.
Trail Side Meadow in early season is a virtual playground. Above Eddie makes use of a nearby snow slope
for a little entertainment. The meadow area is also home to a beautiful meandering stream as shown in the
above right hand image. Be sure to minimize your impact on this fantastic meadow so that others will be able
to enjoy it in the future. It is areas like this that add so much to the experience of hiking up Mt Whitney.
As you proceed
up the trail after
Trail Side Meadow
you will continue
to work your way
up many more
large rocky steps
as shown to the
left until you get
to Consultation
Lake (frozen
middle left side
portion of the
photo to the above right). Consultation Lake is only about a half mile from Trail Camp so if that is your
destination for the day, you are nearly there. The shores of Consultation Lake are desolate indeed, and very
few Whitney hikers take the time out to visit this barren lake. But if you want solitude or just want to get
away from the crowds of people in the more established camps, then Consultation Lake may just be your
ticket.
As the scene to the left comes into view
you can be assured that Trail Camp is very
close by. This camp is one of the most
crowed backpacking campsites in all the
Sierra Nevada Mountains. Most people
who backpack Mt Whitney to reach the
summit use this camp as a launching point
for reaching the top. Trail Camp is located
at 12,000 feet elevation and 6 miles from
the Whitney Portal parking lot. Lots of
activity in and around Trail Camp. It once
had a solar toilet but due to abuse,
(people putting trash in the toilets)
The structure (unfortunately) has now been
removed. Hikers and backpackers are now
required to pack out their own human (solid)
waste in bags provided by the forest service.
You receive these bags when you pick up
your permit. You may consider this a pain,
but it is no big deal, and when you see the
crowds that visit Mt Whitney you will
clearly understand why this is a must. The
camp would be uninhabitable if people
neglected this responsibility. For more about
Trail Camp, you can visit the following Link
on this site: High Camp on Whitney
After Trail Camp, the trail begins the
infamous switchbacks. The trek from Trail
Camp to Trail Crest gains altitude quickly
and once at Trail Crest you only have
797 vertical feet to go in order to reach the
summit. The picture to the right (that was
taken from Trail Camp with a large
telephoto lens), shows the cable section of
the switchbacks that many people worry
about while hiking up Mt Whitney. As you
can see, snow and ice tend to collect at this
point in the trail, and thus the need for the
added safety of the cable railing. Stones
have also been placed here to raise the hiker above the water runoff that often turns to ice during the night.
But even the cables can be rendered useless in early season, so check trail conditions if you plan on hiking Mt
Whitney in spring or in early summer during years of heavy snowfall. Crampons and ice ax (and the
knowledge of how to use them) may be necessary during these times.
Trail Crest is your next destination after you have completed the 97-99 switchbacks, and as mentioned on
the Mt Whitney base camp page, is one of the most beautiful scenes in all the Sierra.
You have now completed 8.2 miles of your one way 11 mile trek to the top of Mt Whitney. The elevation is
now 13,700 feet above sea level. This is the official elevation despite the reading on the sign. It was placed
there many years ago, and since then most authorities put the elevation a hundred feet higher at 13,700. You
are now entering Sequoia National Park. Mt Whitney itself lies within the park, and this section of the trail is
shared by the famous John Muir Trail that starts out in Happy Isles Yosemite. For more on Trail Crest
click here.
There is 2.8 miles to go, and because you will be hiking well above 13,000 feet the whole way, it seems
longer than it really is. You are breathing 1/3 less oxygen, and your heart is going to have to work extra hard
keeping up with the demand that is placed on it by your muscles screaming for more O2. After Trail Crest,
the trail descends a bit and then continues in a slight up and down pattern before making it's last turn upward
before reaching the summit.
Not far from Trail Crest is the Mt Whitney Trail / John
Muir Trail junction. This famous junction is where
Sequoia National Park hikers join Main Mt Whitney
Trail hikers. Continue on, and you reach the turn off
for the scramble up Mt Muir. This class three climb
is a must do for all those climbers out there working on
completing all 15 of the California's 14ers. Doing Mt Muir
in conjunction with Mt Whitney is an excellent way of
knocking off two 14 thousand foot peaks in one outing.
The biggest challenge is being able to recognize the exit
point off the trail. Most miss it and settle for just doing
Mt Whitney which is perfectly fine.
The photo as seen
to the right is the scene
you need to watch for
shortly after the above
junction. But be warned
if you are uncomfortable
with high angle rock
scrambling and a bit
of technical climbing
do not attempt this
adventure. A fall on Mt
Muir is definitely a
possibility, and there is
a good chance that the
fall could cause a very
serious injury or possibly
even death. Class three
climbing is positively way
beyond trail hiking and
easy rock scrambling for most people. People who are experienced in rock climbing but not completely
comfortable with exposure up high, should carry a rope and a few pieces of protection. The above yellow line
shows the approximate route up Mt Muir. I always carry a small 8-9mm rope on all class three climbs for that
extra bit of safety. Even if I may not need the rope in certain sections, others in my party may need the
assistance, and it is
always a help on the
descent. Getting off
route is easy to do, and
I cannot tell you how
many times we have
started off on class
three rock only to get
off course and end up
on fourth or even fifth
class rock before we
were done. But as
mentioned before, do
not attempt this climb
unless you are
experienced. I find that
99 percent of all Mt
Whitney hikers skip
this side trip. To the
left is a photograph
that was taken from
the summit of Mt
Muir showing the main trail switchbacks that occur between Trail Camp and Trail Crest. Mt Muir is a small
summit, and only about three people can be on top at once. But the views from Muir's summit (14,015 feet
above sea level) are outstanding in every direction.
Another cool part about the Sequoia Side of
the Mt Whitney Trail is the so called
Windows that you will be able to peer
through as you pass by. Being able to see
thousands of vertical feet below and far into
the Owens Valley in the distance is a real
thrill. But do not worry, unless you venture
off the wide trail there is no chance of
falling down the steep walls of the eastern
escarpment. The trail seems to go on and
on, but you will soon be able to see the little
stone summit hut atop Mt Whitney soon
enough. The view is a little unsettling at
first, and the summit seems far off, but
diligence wins the day, and you will be on
the summit before you know it.
Near the end, the trail smooths out as shown in the left hand image above, and the tops of Keeler Needle
and Crooks Peak come into view (upper right photo).
One last push left, and
you will be on the
Summit. You have now
completed 11 miles on
the Mt Whitney Trail
and congratulations
are in order. If your
schedule permits, take
time out to enjoy the
360 degree view. You
are now standing on the
highest point in the
lower 48 states of the
USA. You will no doubt
be sharing your
experience with people
that come from all
walks of life and with
some that have come
very long
distances in the US, or even from other countries. Also the summit is a good time to refuel your body if you
are feeling well enough to eat. You still have the return trip to make, and a little rest and fuel will go a long
way in re-energizing your physical resources.
Trail Camp