Mt Whitney's East Face Route is one of the classic big wall climbs in North America. It is listed in Steve Roper's and
Allen Steck's well known book entitled "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America." The East Face Route was first climbed by
Robert Underhill, Francis Farquhar, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and the legendary Norman Clyde on August 16, 1931. Myself
and my long time friend and climbing partner Mike Koerner made our first assent of Mt Whitney's East Face in the month of
June 1981. It was then that I took the above picture while wandering around the area of our camp located near Iceberg Lake. It
was an experience that neither of us will ever forget.
Most access the East Face Route of Mt Whitney via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The mostly cross country section to
the East Face branches off the main Mt Whitney trail early on, and leads up a completely different canyon then the trail. High
camp for climbers is usually established at Iceberg Lake.
If you are interested in climbing the East Face Route, I would highly recommend picking up one of the many great books on
the subject. The above mentioned book by Steve Roper and Allen Steck would be a great reference source. Their book and
many others are loaded with important information about the climb, and they would be invaluable for anyone considering
taking on the adventure. Below are a few key photos featuring some of the highlights of the East Face Climbing Route.
Allen Steck's well known book entitled "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America." The East Face Route was first climbed by
Robert Underhill, Francis Farquhar, Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and the legendary Norman Clyde on August 16, 1931. Myself
and my long time friend and climbing partner Mike Koerner made our first assent of Mt Whitney's East Face in the month of
June 1981. It was then that I took the above picture while wandering around the area of our camp located near Iceberg Lake. It
was an experience that neither of us will ever forget.
Most access the East Face Route of Mt Whitney via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The mostly cross country section to
the East Face branches off the main Mt Whitney trail early on, and leads up a completely different canyon then the trail. High
camp for climbers is usually established at Iceberg Lake.
If you are interested in climbing the East Face Route, I would highly recommend picking up one of the many great books on
the subject. The above mentioned book by Steve Roper and Allen Steck would be a great reference source. Their book and
many others are loaded with important information about the climb, and they would be invaluable for anyone considering
taking on the adventure. Below are a few key photos featuring some of the highlights of the East Face Climbing Route.
Key Climbing Areas of Mt Whitney's East Face
To the left, you see
Mike negotiating the
rounded holds of the
Tower Traverse. This
section is where most
climbers first rope up.
The rock affords great
cracks to place
protection in and they
definitely should be
made use of. A fall
here would send a
climber tumbling over
800 vertical feet to the
rock hard ice below.
The massive First
Tower is clearly visible
below and to the right
of climber.
Here To the right,
Mike is roping up at
the bottom of the
"Washboard" section.
Due to the excellent
hand holds and foot
holds it is possible to
make quick work of
this section of the
climb.
Mt Whitney - East Face Route timberlinetrails.net
Below is the crux area of the "East Face Route." We met up with these two climbers about mid afternoon. They were the only
climbers we met on the route that day. Six or seven other climbers started out early that morning but ended up turning
around at the tower traverse far below. We were a little concerned for these two, however, because the lead climber (as seen
on the opposite wall) had not placed protection as of yet. A fall here (without proper protection) would have meant a nasty
pendulum that would have slammed the lead climber into the wall just below his partner in the foreground. (We met up with
them latter, so they obviously made it without mishap).
The "Fresh Air Traverse" is rated 5.4, but the rating is not the only story here. The exposure in this section is enough to
make any climber dizzy, so we ended up choosing the strenuous "Shaky Leg Crack" (rated 5.7+) located directly above the
start of the "Fresh Air Traverse. Either way, both options eventually lead to easier climbing and the start of the "Grand
Staircase" that leads directly to the summit of Mt Whitney.
climbers we met on the route that day. Six or seven other climbers started out early that morning but ended up turning
around at the tower traverse far below. We were a little concerned for these two, however, because the lead climber (as seen
on the opposite wall) had not placed protection as of yet. A fall here (without proper protection) would have meant a nasty
pendulum that would have slammed the lead climber into the wall just below his partner in the foreground. (We met up with
them latter, so they obviously made it without mishap).
The "Fresh Air Traverse" is rated 5.4, but the rating is not the only story here. The exposure in this section is enough to
make any climber dizzy, so we ended up choosing the strenuous "Shaky Leg Crack" (rated 5.7+) located directly above the
start of the "Fresh Air Traverse. Either way, both options eventually lead to easier climbing and the start of the "Grand
Staircase" that leads directly to the summit of Mt Whitney.
The "Crux" Fresh Air Traverse
< To the left, a Climber well
into the "Fresh Air
Traverse", with lots of fresh
air below.
And to the right >
The beautiful needles just
south of Whitney. Keeler
Needle, Crooks Peak, and
Third Needle, from left to
right. Routes have been put
up on each of their
prospective faces, but the
routes are for advance
climbers only.
Whitney Links
Base Camp
Getting Started
Trailhead
Trail Guide
High Camp
Trail Crest
East Face Route
Summit
Aerial View
Whitney Video
Whitney Slide Show
For Additional peaks and
information on the Sierra
Nevada. Click Here.
Photo Gallery Sierra range.
Click Here.
Base Camp
Getting Started
Trailhead
Trail Guide
High Camp
Trail Crest
East Face Route
Summit
Aerial View
Whitney Video
Whitney Slide Show
For Additional peaks and
information on the Sierra
Nevada. Click Here.
Photo Gallery Sierra range.
Click Here.
Click Here to Watch our Mt Whitney Video